Rod Saver Flat Foot Recessed Trolling Motor Tray Install

This install was done on a ’99 Procraft 205 Pro but will work with any other boat. There are 2 different trays available. A Minn Kota Tray & a Motorguide Tray. Only difference is that the Minn Kota tray is wider. Install will be the same except cutting a different line on the Template included. Please read through the entire install before starting your own. I made a few changes to the install. When you open your box the contents should include the following.1-Flat Foot, 1-Template with instructions, 1-Drain Tube, 1-Zip Tie, 1-Bag of Screws
See the tools & items required on the Template. I couple that are not pictured that I used in this install are an oscillating saw, a putty knife, hammer, hole punch, phillips screw driver & hose clamp.
Rod Saver Motor Tray
1. Locate the best area to install your tray. Be sure to keep the cutting lines away from any pedestal base’s that may be under your carpet. Typically figure to stay away 4” from your pedestal center.2. With your seat in place, sit or stand as you normally do while fishing to locate the proper distance that’s most comfortable to you and place the Template in that location that is good with both your left & right foot. Now secure the Template in place using the masking tape
3. Once the Template is secured in place, sit or stand once again as you would while fishing to check the location of the template.4. I always measure twice as well. So I measured the tray and the template. I was able to shorten up the overall length of the desired cut, which it allowed me to move back the template since I have 2 pedestal holes in my boat. To gain me a little more room. Lay a straight edge and draw your new cut line.
5. Take your Utility Knife and cut along the lines of your style of Flat Foot Tray (Minn Kota or Motorguide). Use the putty knife and work up and peel off the now cut out piece of carpet.
6. Using the 3/8” to ½” drill bit, drill a hole in each of the 4 corners. This will allow you an easy start place for your saw.

Now I used a bore scope before I started this project to see if there was a supporting wall under the deck. I verified that this model of boat had one. Each boat is different and this tray will still work regardless. It just requires a little more cutting.7. Take your saw, I used a jig saw, but a reciprocating saw will work, and cut along the edge of your carpet cutout. I made a cross cut along the front of the support. Once you do that I used the oscillating saw to cut the deck away from the support and remove the remaining pieces.

8. Measure the height of the tray and use that to tell you how far down you need to cut into the support wall. I measured 3 1/8”. Mark out from the top of the deck down onto that support wall on each side. Using a straight edge, make a line across. Using the oscillating saw, notch this piece out. Test fit the pan in the hole and make adjustments to your cuts as needed until it fits nice.The picture shows the drain in the front. This will not work as the end wall is too steep for the Trolling Motor cable & cord to come out. Turn the pan so the drain will be towards the back of the boat, leaving the more gradual incline to the front.Be sure to vacuum out all wood dust etc from inside the boat and on your carpet before completing the rest of these steps. Water and wood dust combined will clog up your water draining and damage your bilge pumps!

9. Attach the drain hose. It came with a zip tie to secure it. I am sure that will work fine, but I used a hose clamp to ensure tightness of the hose to the fitting. Set the tray in place to make sure you have the hose draining to the right area.
All boat manufacturers provide a path or keel drain in the keel of the boat, which allows water to run down the keel to the bilge pumps. Make sure the end of the drain tube is located near the path or keel drain. Some boats may have a 2” PVC pipe that is fiber glassed into the keel of the boat. Some boats may require removal of some foam flotation to access the keel drain. Do not insert the tube into the keel drain tube as this could possible block drainage of water.For any installation where the Flat Foot drain hose would be located in a center storage, a 1” hole will need to be cut in the front wall, and the drain tube routed through this for proper drainage. A longer hose may be needed. Once the hose is routed, place a bead of silicone around the hole in the wall.10. Seal the edge of the exposed wood with silicone. Be careful not to get any on your carpet. Place the flat foot in the hole and secure with the (6) 5/8” long #8 Pan Head Screws. (Note the screw description is wrong on the template and I will have Rod Saver correct that for future installations.)
11. Place the trolling motor foot pedal in the tray and center it where you like. The instructions state to use a felt pen to mark the mounting hole locations. The holes on my Minn Kota were too small for a felt pen so I used a hole punch and hammer to mark my holes. Remove the foot pedal and drill the marked holes with a 9/64” drill bit. Minn Kota uses (3) screws and Motorguides use (4).12. Place the foot pedal back into the tray and install the pedal with (3) 1-1/4” #8 Countersunk Screws. I also shortened up the power cord so there was no so much access getting in the way as seen in the below picture.
If you have any questions or comments doing this install you can contact Rod Saver or leave a comment below.Now head out fishing and test out your new fishing upgrade!
This article was originally published in forum thread: Rod Saver Flat Foot Recessed Trolling Motor Tray Install started by FisherMan View original post